Marty McGuire

Posts Tagged machine-knitting

2025
Mon Sep 8

Machine knitting: what's up with (t)hat?

One of my main goals with learning machine knitting is to replace the electronics on my Brother KH-930e with AYAB (All Yarns Are Beautiful) to create multi-color patterned knits of whatever sicko stuff comes to mind. But home knitting machines aren't a fire-and-forget type of machine. They require a lot of manual effort - from fine stitch work to good core strength - a lot of which requires practice for technique and feel.

So, after taking a machine knitting workshop at Brooklyn's Textile Arts Center, I started absorbing a ton of how-tos, mostly in the form of videos (and those mostly from Carson at her amazing KnitFactoryImpl channel, but also old websites, shopping guides, and more. I ended up making a sort of "curriculum" for myself.

First up: I ordered some pre-coned yarn (I'll cake later, when I know my machine works well), got the ol' machine out of storage and confirmed it all still moved and grooved, made some gauge swatches. And then... needed a project!

I decided to make a hat, following a combination of techniques from these KnitFactoryImpl videos:

That last one is for a very different machine from mine, but more clearly shows the steps and techniques.

Anyway, I made a hat!

Brother KH-930 knitting machine mounted to a gray countertop and surrounded by accessories. A large piece of knitting takes up almost the entire bed. The piece is in the process of being gathered up onto a long tail to be sewn up.

It was fun learning to do some of the pre-planning work, like measuring for a pattern, calculating stitches and rows, and writing out a pattern.

Two pink sticky notes with illustrations, measurements, and calculations.
A hat starts off as a rectangle as wide as your head circumference and half as tall as the measurement over your head from the bottom of one ear to the other. The pattern on the left was calculated for a tighter tension and says 'NOPE' because it added up to 211 stitches, while the knitting machine only supports 200. The pattern on the right says 'Yep', along with some notes about the final fit.

When actually working the pattern on the machine, I also practiced hanging a hem, gathering up onto a long tail to make the pinched hat top, and mattress stitching the seam. Practices in patience, eyesight, and fine motor skills.

I ran it through a load of laundry and it came out much better!

The fit seemed a little loose, but I feel like it sits on my head the way the Carson's sits on her head at the end of her video. I'm taking that as a success for process!

From here I thought a good level up would be to make a new hat with some design tweaks and, because I want to rush to get AYAB working some Fair Isle patterning using the Brother's built-in patterns. Consulting with Producer Amy, I decided to double the length of the brim without lengthening the hat overall. Amy picked a pattern, and I decided to try creating a stripe of it between the brim and the top of the hat.

Another two pink sticky notes with illustrations, measurements, and calculations.
On the left is the pattern I made from Amy's measurements that resulted in the hat below. On the right is the revised pattern for some time in the future, based on fit test and Amy's requests.

Something was not quite right with the knitting carriage. The "MC" button used for two-color Fair Isle knitting was stuck to the "T" button below it, which engages tuck stitching. The result is that the pattern came out all wrong and also this whole paragraph is foreshadowing for some later posts.

The pattern should be gray contrast on black to match the rest of the hat, but instead is mostly-gray with some black peeking through, as well as some interesting texturing from the machine treating the pattern as a tuck stitch.

Despite the patterning issue, I am pleased with how this came out. It's made of cotton rather than wool, so it stretches out a bit as it is worn, but it's still pretty cozy! Producer Amy requested that the next version have patterning from the brim to the top. I look forward to trying that again soon... when I am able! (That's still foreshadowing.)

Okay, that's it! See you next time!

Sun Aug 3

Machine Knitting Continues

Heck yeah, I’m retro-posting. Hello from the future!

It’s August 3rd, 2025 and time for more machine knitting!

A two-story white brick building with arched windows on a sunny day. A street sign in the foreground indicates this is the corner of Whitwell Place and Carroll St.
A nice clear morning at Brooklyn's Textile Art Center
Knitting machine on a steel stand next to a small white stool in a workshop with a worn wooden floor.
Hello, old friend

I started the day practicing some of the techniques from day one of the class.

Practicing some naive increasing and a bad rescue of a dropped stitch.

I have forgotten the first technique Elaine taught us for the day, but it let us work in a second yarn by hand as each row is knit. Seems like maybe a cool way to work in wires or conductive thread??

Chunky black yarn with sparkles in it laid across a bed of machine knitting needles.
This chunky yarn! Pull half the needles forward and lay it across them. This also requires enabling the brush wheels on the knitting carriage (not shown).
The effect is subtle on the "knit" side (left photo), which is generally the outside. The bulk of the worked-in yarn remains on the "purl" side (right photo).

Next up, we learned about putting working needles in hold, aka short-rowing, which allows you to “grow” sections of the knitting by adding rows just to one section, while other parts of the work stay put.

Next it was time for two-color patterned knitting with fair isle, powered by punch cards!

I grabbed this floral pattern. The arrow shows you which way it goes in the machine. Once it's fed halfway, you use plastic clips to join the start and end, forming a loop so the pattern repeats!

The knitting carriage needs several adjustments to begin following the punch card pattern.

Start with the carriage to the left, turn the knob to 'KC', and knit one row in your main color from left-to-right. This will set the needles for the first row of the pattern.
With the needles set and the carriage on the right, Press the 'MC' button and add the contrast yarn.

Then… knit a bunch of rows! Here’s a little video.

My hand moving the carriage back and forth. The carriage clatters as it moves needs. The punch card reader clicks and advances as each row is finished.

When you’re done patterning, you can snip the contrast yarn, turn the carriage back knob back to ‘NL’ and disable the ‘MC’ button, then proceed knitting in your main yarn color as normal.

Fair isle knitting creates "floats" on the back (purl) side, which is what faces us while we knit. Seen from the correct (knit) side, the pattern is revealed! Also, it looks like I dropped a stitch at some point and produced a little snag here. Oh well!

After a lunch break, we spent most of the rest of the time practicing what we’d learned so far. Near the end, Elaine taught a few important techniques that you do off the machine.

The diagram shows one way to make a "gauge swatch", which is required to find out how many stitches and rows produce an inch of finished knitting. On the right is an example of mattress stitching, used to join the edges of knit pieces together.

Note to self, or anyone who wants to book some studio time to do some machine knitting at the TAC:

There's a cabinet for the knitting machine accessories and here are some context clues for finding them!

And that was the end of the class! I learned so much, but mostly that I have so much yet to learn.

Knitting machine tucked away with transparent plastic protective cover.
Goodbye, new friend.

Besides the big swatch of worked-in yarn, here’s the rest of my swatches for the day!

Several knit swatches on a countertop, held flat with coasters.
What a haul!

From top-to-bottom, left-to-right:

  • Blue swatch with yellow short-rowed triangle sections.
  • Blue and red swatch partially mattress-stitched into a tube, with several lace holes.
  • Long blue and yellow swatch with practice sections of short-rowing and lace, as well as a long section of floral fair isle pattern. The end of the piece is ragged from a failed bind-off.
  • Fair isle swatch with blue-on-purple.
  • Fair isle swatch with purple-on-blue.
  • Long purple swatch with sections of blue.
  • Blue-on-yellow fair isle swatch.
  • Yellow-on-blue fair isle swatch.
  • Short blue-on-yellow fair isle swatch with two ragged edges: one from removing the swatch without binding off, and one (I think) because I had a "weird" number of stitches compared with the pattern, leading to some edge stitches being dropped.

Will I continue my machine knitting journey?? Stick around to find out! Subscribe in your favorite feed reader, and so on, and so forth!

Sat Aug 2

Happy HTML Day (I'm machine knitting Edition)

Happy HTML Day!

I'm taking a two-day machine knitting workshop intensive, so I did not have the energy to join the folks at the Valentino Jr. Park meetup.

Instead I am writing this post (in HTML) while watching along to Jenn Schiffer's "HTML Day From Home (hdfh)" stream.

The workshop is Machine Knitting 101, from Brooklyn's Textile Arts Center's line of Machine Knitting classes and workshops. Today, our instructor Elaine walked us through some of the basics.

  • The parts of the machine (Brother KH-840s. Punch card reading cuties from the 1970s!)
  • Choosing yarn
  • Threading the machine with tension
  • Casting on with "e-loops", comb and weights
  • Knitting rows, managing weights
  • Moving stitches horizontally and vertically, making holes and ladders
  • Blending colors and swapping colors
  • Increasing and decreasing the number of stitches not-at-the-edge
  • Casting off (the hardest thing we covered, probably)

We bought a knitting machine, a Brother KH-930e, back in, checks notes, =chokes= like 2011 or 2012?? Enticed by Becky Stern's post on on hacking the KH-930e. As it turns out, the electronics hacking was NOT the difficult part of working with one of these machines! After some rounds of buying replacement parts and maintenance, we got a couple of little projects out of it, but found it challenging enough to work with that we stopped messing with it. But, we still have it, and I'm excited to try again!

Here's a photo of the workshop syllabus, as well as some of my debris from today's workshop.

A gray countertop covered in messy machine knit samples of purple and green yarn

From top to bottom, left-to-right:

  • A long run of purple and green blocks, with a mix of clean color changes (where you cut one yarn and start antoher) and blending (where you knit with two yarns at once!). This run also includes a "flap" where I used vertical stitch movement to "close up" a small block of green.
  • A long run of purple yarn with holes and "wrinkles". These are tests of moving stitches horizontally (holes) and vertically (wrinkles).
  • An unraveling run with one block each of purple and green. A failed attempt at casting off.
  • A small unraveling block of purple. A failed attempt at casting off.
  • An unraveling run with two blocks of purple divided by a small block of green. A failed attempt at casting off.
  • A non-unraveling block of purple. My one success at casting off!
  • An unraveling block of purple. A failed attempt at casting off.
  • A run with a large green block and a large tapering purple block. Practice at increasing and decreasing stitches. I decreased down to one stitch lol.
  • A small unraveling block of green. A failed attempt at casting off.
Update from the future: here are some more photos from the day!

Thank you for reading. I hope to post more knitting projects. I hope to read your HTML Day creations!

'til next time!